Prep
As you have probably heard before preparation is the key to a good job. In many cases the prep takes longer to do than the actual painting. If a room to that is to be repainted is in reasonably good shape you may be able to get by without an extensive prep. If the previous job was done well that is a big help.
First Step: Get a good idea of what you are getting into look around the room for the obvious Repairs: Water stains, large holes, cracks, and so forth. These are things that will absolutely need repair
Second Step: (optional prep) Take a close look. Does the old paint appear to be bonded well? If large areas are pealing from a prior coat of paint, you will probably have to totally remove the pealing layer of the pealing section to prevent this from continuing.
Is there much debris in the previous paint that should be sanded out, are there runs sags heavy brush marks that could require a lot of sanding to remove? Look at woodwork for chipped corners and dents, do you want to take the time to fill them? Are there lead hazards? These are things that could require a lot of extra work and create dust.
Third Step: Caulking joints filling nail & pinholes, sealing knots, washing surfaces, removing mildew, and dulling surfaces. These jobs are pretty much standard routine.
Getting Materials
Once you assessed your situation you can make a list of the materials you will be using. Having most of the materials on site before you start saves time from having to leave off to go to the hardware store.
Most Common Materials: 120 and 220 grit Sandpaper, latex caulk, spackling compound, masking tape, rags.
Other items to consider: Wood dough, joint compound, joint tape, stick on wall patch, disposable plastic drop cloths, masking paper, stain sealer, paint thinner, detergent, de-glosser, denatured alcohol tack cloth, paint strainers.
Tools: Drop cloths, step ladder paint brushes, buckets, roller covers, roller handles, roller pan, pan liners, extension poll, putty knife, dust brush, caulk gun, nail set, hammer, utility knife, wire to poke caulk tube, screw driver, sponge work light.
Other tools to consider: Joint knifes, poll sander
Personal Items: Goggles, work gloves, rubber gloves, hat, dust mask, respirator.
Beginning The Work
Clear out the room; move as much furniture as possible to another room. If large furniture is to difficult to move out, see it can be moved to the center of the room and covered with the plastic drop cloths. Take down pictures and curtains. Cover the floor with drop cloths.
Any washing you have decided can be done at this point. (See
Remove electrical wall plates (use caution), and cover outlets and switches with tape.
Next start the major wallboard repairs you will be doing: patch holes in wallboard, the larger repairs usually take several coats of joint compound, and you must allow dry time between each coat. Nail holes in wallboard can also be filled with joint compound.
Scrape any areas of loose paint, sand debris from prior coats of paint. If the prior paint is in very good condition the fine 220 paper can be used, but most often a coarser paper is needed for this purpose.
Seal stains and knots .Oil based stain sealers will work on most stains but the alcohol-based sealer should be used on knots
Glossy surfaces can now be dulled by sanding with 180 or 220 grit sandpaper (see Dulling Surfaces )
Fill holes in woodwork with spackling, wood dough, or other preferred wood filler using a putty knife. Nail holes in wallboard may be filled with spackling.
Caulk joints at door and window casings baseboards and other painted woodwork use an acrylic latex caulk. Caulking can often repair cracks at corners of walls and ceilings.
When the fillers (joint compound, spackling, wood dough) have dried sand any build up of filler flush with surface. Spot prime filled areas and bare wood with the sealer or other appropriate primer. Note if you will be priming an entire area spot priming is not necessary.
Surfaces Priming
Any patched or bare surfaces will need to be spot primed.
Now prime any areas such as the ceiling or walls that will get a full coat of primer. This step is optional and usually does not have to be done on previously painted surfaces ,but can often give the best results especially on discolored or splotchy ceilings..
Final Prep Steps
Check the primer to see if it needs any sanding to do before the first coat of finish paint is applied, hopefully there will be very little to do at this point. Check around the room for places that might have gotten missed during the prep stages. Seal any stains. If you decide to fill any holes, keep in mind that they should be spot primed before painting.
Clean the room. If you have not had allot of repairs to do, then you may be about ready to start painting .If you have created allot of dust try to eliminate the dust as much as possible. (See Dust section on our Health page).
Dust A common method of clearing dust out cloth drop cloths has been to take them out and shake them. But you must know there are no lead paint issues and you feel you have an appropriate area to do so away from play areas, pet areas, and bird feeders ect. Other wise it is probably better to wash them. Plastic tarps can sometimes be swept with a broom. Disposable drop cloths can disposed of.
For more information on house painting tips and procedures visit HouseColour.com today!
